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If you’re staying in Toyama in Central Japan, an afternoon in Iwase is a must-do. This small town at the end of the tramline is becoming a home for fine dining and artisan crafts, but it’s still kept its hometown feel. Here are six things to do when you get there.
Article by Helen Foster. Disclosure: Some links in this post are affiliate links. See our Affiliate Disclosure.
The Quick Backstory
Iwase is an old town based on seafaring, shipbuilding and import and export, as it’s close to the harbour. As with many smaller Japanese towns, though, as the traditional industry disappeared, so did the people. However, the town is home to the Masuda Sake family, and the current head didn’t want to see his hometown turned into an abandoned relic of the past.
He started buying the old houses to preserve them and finding tenants for them—those tenants were chefs and artists. The town is now quietly thriving as a hub for beautiful objects and fine dining (both of which you can partake in as a visitor). But it’s also still very much a town for locals. Few international tourists come here, but those that do are warmly welcomed—as I discovered when visiting the sights below.
1. Explore Omachi/Niikawacho Street
This is the main thoroughfare through the town, so set it as your destination on maps. Lined with traditional wooden houses, it has a streetscape similar to places like Takayama but with a fraction of the people.
The buildings are a mix of residences, galleries, cafes, bars and restaurants and more traditional shops or businesses, like the musical instrument shop selling shamisen, the guitar-like instrument traditionally played by geishas, and an old bookbinder store.
I loved that, even though the town is being revitalised, this is still a very local town, and all the faded signs and slightly dishevelled buildings dotted around just added to it’s charm.
As you walk up the street, you’ll likely smell the Matsuda Sake Brewery, located on one of the side streets to your right. The building is good for photographing, but you can’t go inside—but don’t worry—you will get to try their wares a little later.
If you like Japanese sweets, make sure you head to Otsukaya. They’re famous for their triangular dorayaki, a pancake filled with red bean paste. It’s popular, so you might find it sold out, but try it if you get the chance.
2. Visit the Noble Houses
Next to each other on the main street are the Mori Family House and the Baba Family House. Both were homes of wealthy shipping merchants in the area, and you can look around to see how this class of people lived back in the day.
I didn’t get to visit the Mori Family House as it’s closed until 2026 due to damage sustained in the January 2024 earthquake, but I did visit the Baba Family Home and was amazed by its tardis-like interior. I’d have had no idea that all of this was hidden behind the small entrance door.
In fact, the Baba Family House is the largest home in Iwase, and the family that owned it was one of the town’s most influential families.
Some of the elements of the house not to miss are the huge 33-tatami mat-floored room and the long indoor passage, which show the size of the residence.
The family didn’t just live here; so there are also rooms dedicated to storing the goods the Baba family imported. And don’t miss the pretty view into the garden from many of the rooms. You can also see the sea and harbour from the upper levels.
The Kobo Brewery is also located in the garden at the back of the house, selling local craft beer.
The Baba House is open from 9-5 p.m. most days of the year. Just double check the opening hours if you are here over New Year when they take a longer break.
3. Buy Squid from a Vending Machine
If you’re on a mission to find some of Japan’s more unusual vending machines, this one will go on your list.
Firefly Squid is one of Iwase’s traditional foods, and at the far end of the high street, just past Saseki (below), you’ll find a vending machine selling dried versions of both —a very Japanese way to try this local delicacy.
You can also try both dishes at our next stop, and there they come in the pretty display above!
4. Try Some Sake
Saseki is the tasting room of the Masuda Sake Brewing Company, and while the staff doesn’t speak much English, they are very welcoming to tourists.
You pay one fee upfront, and for that, you can taste as many different sakes as you like in 15 or 30 minutes—they set a timer next to your cup. When I was there, the 15-minute course cost 1000 yen, and the 30-minute course cost 2000 yen.
I wasn’t sure where to even start from the array of bottles in the fridge, so I asked them to recommend one – use the word osusume to do this – and they brought out one of their best bottles – the one below if you want to try it too.
I poured a tiny portion into my glass, at which point they told a nearby couple who spoke English to tell me I could have more than that! That sounded a bit dangerous as I did need to try samples from a few more bottles before my 15-minutes was up, but I had lunched on a portion of Toyama’s famous, and very filling, black ramen so, I figured why not!
I tried five different sakes in my time limit – all were delicious and was rather happy by the time I left!
I also ordered the pretty plate of dried firefly squid and some anchovies, which went very well with the sake.
5. Have a Gourmet Meal
Iwase punches above its weight when it comes to fine dining, as, as I said, Ryuichiro Masuda, the owner of the Masuda company, is trying to revitalise the town by attracting chefs, restauranteurs and other artisans.
Some of the best restaurants here include Oryouri Fuji, GEJO Sushi, and the French restaurant Cave Yunoki. Bookings are strongly advised.
If you’re looking for something a bit less expensive, consider Stateless Noodle House, which has one of the highest scores I’ve ever seen on Google reviews and is much more budget-friendly than the above.
Foodies traveling in this area might also want to consider spending an evening at L’Evo. See more about this famous restaurant here.
6. Wander the Backstreets
While the main action in Iwase takes place along the main street, don’t miss a wander around the side streets running off it.
One of the first stops detours I made to investigate a temple, led me to this far more interesting temple of junk—it’s actually a museum of old toys and other gizmos.
Run by an engineer who used to work for Sharp, it’s his personal collection of items from the last 40 years.
The exhibition is open to the public, but you must make a reservation. Only a phone number is listed, so you’ll likely need someone who speaks Japanese to help you. Ask your hotel or speak to the Toyama Tourist Information Office at Toyama Station. The name of the museum in Japanese is 昭和レトロ館 吾楽俊, or, in English, it’s the Showa Retro Museum Gurakushun.
Then, while heading back to the station, I watched some giant birds flying over the wooden roofs with a local man who was as in awe of them as I was. Several small shrines and many pretty old buildings are also dotted around the town – don’t miss out on this part of the Iwase experience. It’s one of the things that give it it’s charm.
Allow 2-3 hours to explore Iwase properly – more if you want to dine or take the 30-minute sake-tasting course.
Getting to Iwase
Iwase is easily reached by the tram from Toyama. Get off at Higashi-Iwase, and everything is a short walk away.
As I mentioned in the guide to where to stay in Toyama, the local council offers tourists two free tram passes if you’re staying in a Toyama Hotel. Make sure you ask for yours when you check-in.
