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If you spend time in Osaka, you’ll have seen a Billiken. They’re the fat-tummied, smiley statues you’ll find all over the city, particularly in the vibrantly-kitsch Shinsekai district. But what are they, and why are they everywhere? Here’s our quick guide to all things Billiken.
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Exactly What is a Billiken?
Billiken is a ‘god’ – specifically, he’s the ‘God of the Way Things Ought to Be’ – a phrase you’ll often notice written on the plinth upon which they sit. People pray to him for good fortune in business, school and love.
With that in mind, you might think they have a deep Japanese history, maybe that they were part of the crew of yokai (Japanese monsters) that have myths and legends written about them, but no.
Billiken was actually invented in the United States, and has only been in Japan since the 1900s. But there’s still a cool story behind them.
The Origin of Billiken
Billiken was dreamt up by an American teacher and artist, Florence Pretz, from Kansas City, Missouri – and I mean that quite literally. The design of the baby-like creature came to her in her sleep.
Once she awoke, she started drawing him, and made him into a doll. A story developed around them that buying them was lucky – and, it was said that if buying one was lucky, getting one as a gift was even luckier – and you can guess how that turned out! They went gangbusters!
So, how did this doll from Kansas City, Missouri, end up all over Osaka?
It’s said that the first Billiken came to Osaka as an exhibit representing America in the Luna Park theme park that was built in Shinsekai in the early 1900s.
When that was knocked down, the statue went missing but Osaka had adopted the little fat fella as it’s own, and a wooden Billiken was added to the top of the Tsuntenkaku Tower – the 103-metre high tower that’s the icon of the Shinsekai district of Osaka.
Due to the belief that rubbing his feet helps boost luck, the Tsutenkaku statue is replaced fairly often, but he’s still up there surveying the city below.
A city full of his brethren!
TOP TIP: If you want to go up the Tsutenkaku Tower on your Osaka trip, it’s best to buy tickets in advance. The queues can be long.
You’ll find giant ones towering over you from billboards, they sit on the side of the road wearing little outfits, or waving food to tempt you into restaurants – there’s even a Billiken shrine you can visit – which ironically has probably the smallest Billiken statue in the neighbourhood!
The Billiken franchise has also expanded into merchandise—you can buy tiny Billiken cakes to nibble on as you wander around Shinsekai and wear your Billiken t-shirt or printed Billiken socks with pride.
Most of the time, though, when you see a Billiken, it’s outside a restaurant—and chances are that restaurant serves Kushikatsu—basically deep-fried food on sticks, which is the must-eat dish in Shinsekai and one of the must-eats in Osaka. He’s there to entice you in, and I feel you should listen to him.
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NB: A similar version of this story first appeared on Japlanease’s sister blog, Differentville, which discusses the more unusual things you’ll find in Japan and the rest of the world.