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It can be hard to find an onsen that will allow you to bathe in the public baths if you have tattoos, but things just got a whole lot easier as one major Japanese ryokan onsen chain has changed the rules about bathing in their onsens when inked. Here’s what you need to know.
The chain is the luxury onsen brand Kai, which is owned by Hoshino Resorts, the same company that owns the upscale Hoshinoya brand and the city-based OMO Hotels.
All images @Hoshino Resorts. Used with permission. All are from Kai Hakone except the Kai Okuhida image.
At a recent press briefing in Australia, the chain’s CEO, Yoshiharu Hoshino, announced that they had decided to change the policy to make it easier for both tourists visiting the onsen and the staff working there, who had previously been responsible for enforcing the tattoo ban. He said some Japanese guests were still a bit shocked by the idea, but that times were changing and Hoshino wanted to be a leader in helping this happen.
The official policy on the website states, ‘We respect the cultural backgrounds and values of all our guests, and therefore do not restrict the use of our facilities based on tattoos.
However, to ensure a comfortable environment for everyone, we may refuse access to the public bath if we believe that the presence of tattoos could cause discomfort or concern among other guests.’
This is unlikely to affect foreign guests unless your tattoos are obviously offensive; however, if you are unsure, it is best to check with the chain before booking.
The chain is also introducing a vegetarian kaiseki menu and a more Western-style breakfast, which is served with the same attention to detail as a traditional Japanese one, as part of their dining options.
Where Are Kai Hotels?
The chain has 21 properties in natural hot spring areas, and more are set to open in the near future. Some of the most popular destinations for foreign tourists where you’ll find a Kai hotel include …
Kai Hakone
Located on the old Tokaido Road in Hakone Yumoto Onsen, this hotel has recently reopened after undergoing refurbishment. All the rooms offer calming views of the forest surrounding them, and the onsen baths feature open windows with tree views and the sound of the river, adding to the relaxing effects. Some rooms also have private outdoor baths. Rooms can sleep up to five, and children are welcome to stay.
It’s located approximately a ten-minute taxi ride from Hakone Yumoto Station, or a 15-minute ride by local bus.
Kai Sengukohara
Located a little further north in Hakone, Kai Sengukohara has a lovely touch as the rooms contain artworks by artists who have stayed at the hotel. The rooms are spacious, have balconies, and many of these have private onsen baths installed. Indoor and outdoor public baths are also available. Rooms sleep up to three, and children can stay.
Don’t be put off by this location because it looks a little far out from Gora. I stayed in this area on my last trip and really liked it, and the bus service is excellent. It’s also just a 15-minute drive to/from Gora Station. If you want to do the Hakone Loop backwards (which is the best way to beat the crowds), you can get a bus from here directly to the Hakone Shrine.
Kai Okuhida
Heading towards Takayama on your trip? Check this out. This picture of the hot spring at night here actually made me go WOW! when I saw it – look at it below. Can you imagine sitting in this gorgeous hot spring bath looking up at the stars!
Kai Hotels offer cultural experiences relating to the local area at each of their hotels, and at this one, it’s learning how the local craftsmen bend wood, which you can then attach to local fabric to make a very cute little bag. I have one and it’s adorable.
Rooms here accommodate up to four guests, and some feature private outdoor baths. However, it would be a shame to miss stargazing from the public one.
The hotel is located approximately a 45-minute drive from Takayama Station, but is also accessible by the Nohi Bus from Takayama, which operates five times a day. The hotel is just a three-minute walk from Hirayu Bus Terminal.
Kai Ito
If you’re travelling to the Izu Peninsula for a few days R&R between Tokyo and Osaka, this could be the perfect place to stop. I have my eye on it for my visit next year as the onsen is gorgeous, featuring rock walls and a hot springs waterfall. The unique cultural experience at this hotel is to make your own Camellia oil from the local flowers, which sounds like a lovely way to spend an hour or two.
The hotel is only a ten-minute walk from Ito Station. See rooms and rates here.
If you prefer to be closer to the beach, Kai Anjin is also nearby. Check rooms and rates for that here.
Kai Poroto
If you’re heading to Hokkaido, this should be on your radar. Kai Poroto offers views of Lake Poroto from all rooms – and if you’re an architecture buff, the onsen baths are fabulous. The outdoor bath is super modern, the indoor is a cone-shaped bathhouse based on local Ainu design. You can also create an amulet with local plants and herbs as one of the cultural experiences offered by the hotel.
The resort is located a five-minute drive, or short walk, from Shiraoi Station, which is a 75-minute train journey from Sapporo. If you’re coming from Hakodate, the journey is three hours by train. Both can also be reached more quickly by car.
More coming soon: Kai will also be opening properties in Miyajima for Summer 2026, and this one offers the chance to visit the floating torii in a private boat. Kai Nikko is also set to reopen in the near future. See the full range of hotels here.
So, if you have tattoos, it seems the world of onsens is opening up further to you. Have a relaxing trip!
