The Quirky Choan-ji Temple in Hakone

Helen Foster

Stumbling across the statue-strewn grounds of Choan-ji Temple in Hakone was the highlight of my Hakone trip. Here’s what you need to know if you want to visit…

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I nearly didn’t go to Choan-ji.

I’d spent a busy day exploring Hakone, and, I had a private onsen booked in my hotel at 6pm. Lounging in my room at 4.45, I debated whether to keep go or enjoy having some time to relax.

I’d seen nothing about the temple except a few pictures on Google Maps, and I wasn’t sure I wanted to leave my pretty sitting area next to the river in my hotel. Curiosity and the fact that the shrine was only a ten-minute walk away got the better of me.

I’m so glad it did… I ended up finding my favorite thing in Hakone.

Choan-ji contains over 200 sculptures of Buddhist monks, each slightly different. If you’ve read the Kyoto section of this blog, you might already know that my favorite place in Kyoto is Otagi Nenbutsu Ji, which is famous for its tiny stone men statues. Choan-ji is similar, but while the statues in Kyoto are cute, round, and covered in moss, these are stark, mostly still white, and far more humanistic.

Why Are There So Many Statues?

Choan-ji is a Buddhist temple, dedicated to the Soto sect. The statues are known as rakan in Japanese (or arhat in Sanskrit). Rakan are disciples of Buddha spreading the word of Buddhism on earth. It’s said that these ones represent the monks who studied at Choan-ji in the past.

Over 250 different statues are scattered around the temple’s hilly grounds. While the temple buildings have existed here since the 14th century, the statues only started appearing in the 1980s. They are by a variety of Japanese artists, and the team has been quite prolific in the last 45 years.

The thing I loved most about it is that each one is different – some look like they’re going to tell you off any second, others might be in search of enlightenment, while, the odd group could be shooting the breeze with their friends on a Friday night.

Apparently, if you look hard enough, you’ll find one that looks like you. Personally, I’m not sure how I’d translate into the form of a small wizened bald man, but, I’ll go with it.

Maybe this one is me? I quite like the idea of sitting in a little bed of flowers for eternity.

The Choan-ji complex also includes some small temple buildings and a small graveyard, but the true stars are the statues.

You’ll be the only tourist here most of the time —although the temple might be busier if you visit in November as it’s famous for its autumn colours.

How to Get Here

Catch a bus to the Sengokuhara area and get off at the Sengoku stop.

Multiple regular buses serve this route, and most are included on the Hakone Free Pass if you’re using it. If you’re not, the fare is around 500 yen from Gora and 840 yen from Hakone Yumoto.

It will take about 20 minutes to get here from Gora by bus. You can also catch the bus from Hakone Yumoto and get here in about 30 minutes.

I did the latter on my trip and it actually turned out to be one of my favorite things I did in Hakone as it was so relaxing and allowed me to see more of the scenery that I couldn’t acess otherwise.

How Long Should You Spend at Choan-ji?

It’s a quiet, subtle sight. If you want your temples flashy and gaudy and to tick the ‘I went there’ boxes, you’ll pass through here in less than 15 minutes – but if you love slightly quirky, off-the-beaten-path places and will appreciate the art that goes into the carvings, and enjoy spotting the different elements on the statues, you’ll want to take your time.

I spent an hour here, but I could easily have spent double that as I mostly stayed on the flat, and the paths within the temple climb up the hill, and I could see more statues scattered up there – I was just conscious that I had my onsen booked.

If this looks like your happy place, allow about 90 minutes to two hours. I took about 100 pictures in Choan-ji, which is always a sign of how much I’ve enjoyed somewhere – but that means I only captured about a third of the statues in the area.

The temple is open 24 hours, but you’ll want to come in daylight to navigate the many paths and see the details on the statues. If you come near dusk, wear insect repellent, as there are mosquitoes up here.

What Else is Nearby

You can easily combine a trip to Choan-ji with visiting the Venetian Glass Museum, the Lalique Museum and the Evangelion sights of Kintoki Shrine and Sangokuhara Grass Fields. There are also several hotels in this area, and they can be a little bit more wallet-friendly than some other areas of Hakone.

I stayed at the Mount View Hakone, which is within walking distance, and it was fantastic – especially for the price I paid.

A Few Last Pictures

I’ve run out of words to say, but I still have pictures, so, here – have a photo dump! I never do this, but I just loved it here!

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