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I’ve been to Nara three times now, but this was the first time I’d really explored beyond the deer park – and, there were a few things I wish I’d known before I visited,.. like these.
1. How Beautiful Kasuga Taisha Is
I hadn’t made it to this shrine on the outskirts of Nara before this trip, but as I walked up the gentle slope lined by old stone lanterns covered in moss in the early morning, I was transported to another world. And I realised I’d made a mistake not coming here before.
It’s tranquil and absolutely beautiful – and, finding fawns frolicking in the woods behind the lanterns or adult deer poking their nose out between the lanterns was the icing on the cake.
The grounds to the shrine open from 6.30am and I’d strongly suggest coming here early in the morning just so you can appreciate the silence and stillness of the place – although this does mean that the shrine itself won’t be open. You can walk around the exterior of all the buildings though and see the famous lanterns that make the place so special.
2. You Really Need to Stay Overnight
Most people who come to Nara come for the day. Its compact array of sites and proximity to both Kyoto and Osaka make it perfect day trip material.
That’s how I did my first two visits to the city, but on this trip, I stayed three nights which allowed me to get to Kasuga Taisha first thing and explore Todaiji before most other tourists arrived.
If you can’t stay overnight, at least try and get here as early in the morning as possible. The difference in crowd numbers, and the behavior of the famous deer, is noticeable after 10.30 am.
If you do decide to stay in Nara, the Daiwa Roynet Hotel near Nara Station has cute deer designs in the room and is very handy for transport around Nara, and nearby day trips like Uji.
It also has a very welcome onsen to soak in – and free ice pops when you come out! I’d definitely recommend it.
3. Todai-ji Gate is Immense
Normally I find myself disappointed by Japan’s ‘must see’ sights – often they’re very crowded and, despite their historical significance, a lot of them aren’t the thing I enjoy most in a destination – but, Todai-ji was an exception. The entrance gate alone is just awe-inspiring dwarfing the mere humans walking through it.
The Buddha inside the temple is also huge – to get a sense of its true scale, you’ll find a to-size model of one hand before you go through the Todai-ji gate that you can stand beside. It was almost as tall as I am. But, while the Buddha is impressive, it was the gate that really made me go wow.
4. There are Two Stations
Okay, I knew this, but I didn’t really appreciate it when planning my trip.
I booked arrived into Nara on the Aoniyoshi Sightseeing train from Kyoto as I wanted to try out this luxury sightseeing train, but it arrives into Kintetsu Nara station – and I was staying right on top of the JR Nara Station a few hundred metres away!
It wasn’t a big deal as the buses in Nara are very regular, especially between the stations but if you’re traveling to Nara make sure you know exactly which station you’re coming into.
Kintetsu Nara is slightly nearer the deer park if you want to walk toward the main sights. If you’d prefer to get a bus though, I’d suggest coming into Nara Station as the lop bus that goes to the park starts here and you’ll be more likely to get a seat. By the time it gets to Kintetsu Nara, it’s pretty busy and you will have to stand – if it stops at all.
5. Lamp Bar Gets Very Full
Talking of full – this cocktail bar is suggested by the tourist board as one of the best things to do in Nara at night, and I wandered down there early one evening thinking I’d give it a try.
Despite me only needing one seat, and it not even being 6pm yet, it was completely full. So, if it’s on your list of things to do, get there early.
6. The Mochi Shop Show is a Waste of Time
You might have seen this on Instagram, two guys with hammers pounding away at a piece of mochi at a speed that is one hammer slip away from a broken hand. It’s impressive and looks fun on video, but in reality, the shop is located on a narrow pavement with a scrum of people all trying to take the same film that you see online – but with less of a view.
I’m not saying don’t go and try the mochi, but, unless you’re an Instagrammer determined to have the same video as everyone else, maybe don’t bother cramming in for the show.
Watch the video online and visit the shop between shows to buy the treats with less of a queue and no security guards blowing whistles at you.
If you’re not bothered about famous mochi, you can also try cute deer and strawberry daifuku (a type of stuffed mochi) from Daibutsu Ichigo instead.
7. The Deer Can Have Ticks
Playing with the deer in Nara is a highlight – they’re super cute, not afraid of humans, will bow if you bow and they go nuts for the deer cookies they sell in the park.
If you get there early in the morning, you can go full-on Disney Princess and have them eating out of your hands and lying with their heads in your lap.
While the deer do have a reputation for being a bit aggressive, early in the morning before the tourists arrive and hype them up with deer cookies, they can be quite calm. I noticed that the more people who arrived, especially if people were shrieking and shouting, the more likely the deer were to nip and bite. They’re also more likely to nip if they think you’re withholding cookies – show them that your hands are clear!
Also, watch out for ticks. Some of the deer do have them and it’s possible to get bitten. Ideally, use insect repellent and/or wear long trousers for your visit and, if you do end up as a Disney princess, just double-check your skin after your trip.
8. Order Extra Gyoza at Menya Ryu
This tiny ramen shop is opposite Nara Station and it was my first stop when I arrived there around lunchtime.
I ordered the spicy ramen and three gyoza – it was great. But, from what I was seeing around me I should have ordered the chicken ramen, six gyoza – and a side of the karaage chicken.
As it was, the three gyoza I did have were enough for the meal to go into my list of memorable meals in Japan so you know it must be good.
9. There’s More to See Than Deer
They may be the main draw for many people, and, on my last two trips to Nara, the deer were my main focus – but there’s more to Nara than visiting Bambi’s brethren.
Many smaller shrines and gardens are dotted around the park, including the interesting Himuro Jinja which will tell your fortune using a block of ice.
South of the city is the old trading area of Nara Machi which is full of small shrines, independent shops, sake and beer breweries, museums, and old houses like the Naramachi Nigiwai-no-le. It’s a lovely place to spend an afternoon away from the crowds that fill the park.
Just check opening days here as they can be a bit erratic. If there’s something you really want to see, make sure it’s not closed on the day you want to visit (I did not do this and ended up with a few closed doors) – or, time your trip for the weekend when everything should be open.
East of Kasuga Taisha you’ll find unspoilt woodlands and hiking paths. And, a short bus ride out of town will take you to the fun Nara Kingyo goldfish art museum.
10. Pick Up a Bus Pass
If you’re going to spend a day or more in Nara, and are likely to use the bus more than three times, head into the Tourist Information Centre and pick up the 600 yen Narakotsu Bus Pass. You can then use the bus to get up to the deer park and back, and to take you down to Nara Machi, but also to save your feet between some of the sights.
The buses are frequent and easy to use, especially with the pass as you just show it to the driver on exit. If you don’t buy the pass, remember that usually you tap your IC card twice on the Nara buses. Once when you get on the bus at the back – and again at the front when you get off.
I saw one group of tourists shouting at the driver as they thought they’d already paid when they tapped on and he was asking them to tap again as they got off, but that’s when it actually works out your fare and deducts the cash from your card.
So there’s my list of the things I’d wish I’d known before I went to Nara. Hopefully, it will help you have an even better day – or few days – in this fantastic town.
