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Looking for somewhere to have lunch, dinner or a quick snack in Takayama, here’s where I ate on my recent visit – and it’s going to help you out a lot if you’re a fan of yaki-soba! But, we’ll also suggest some other options for those staying longer, or wanting something a bit more gourmet.
By the time I arrived in Takayama, I was hungry! I’d caught a bug a few days earlier that had really sapped my appetite, meaning my plan to eat my way around Nagano had failed. My food cravings had come back a bit when I was in Toyama, giving me the chance to try specialities there like black ramen and white shrimp, but by the time I arrived in Takayama, I needed food – and lots of it. Thankfully, one of my favourite foods was to be found just steps from my hotel.
Toranoya
Toranoya is described as an okonomiyaki restaurant, but that wasn’t why I was there – they also make yaki soba, one of my favourite Japanese foods, which is a lot harder to find than you might think.
I walked inside with minutes to spare for the lunch service, but the few locals lingering over a lunchtime beer couldn’t have been more welcoming. They asked me where I was from, being strangely fascinated and a bit concerned that I was travelling alone. The old lady who runs the place doesn’t speak much English, but she’s full of smiles – and looks fabulous in her bright lipstick and neatly pressed apron.
They do have an English menu, but I already knew why I was here. I ordered the Yaki Soba – Buta, which is yaki soba with pork. They also offer a version with squid, as well as an option for a mix of both.
It was delicious – crunchy cabbage, thick, firm noodles, lots of pork and the lovely smoky taste you only get from grills that are regularly used at very high heat!
If yakisoba isn’t your thing, there are six different types of okonomiyaki on the menu – again, these are filled with squid or pork, or a mix. They also offer an egg and green onion option for those who don’t eat meat or fish. Lastly, there are a couple of other options on the menu, including a pork and kimchi dish I wish I’d had the opportunity to try. The Japanese menu has a few more dishes on it than the English one, if you’re happy to use Google Translate.
Prices are very reasonable, with yaki soba costing 850 yen and the mixed squid and pork okonomiyaki topping things out at 1,250 yen.
I couldn’t have had a nicer welcome here, and I wish I’d had time to come back and try some other dishes.
Toranoya is open from 11:00 a.m. to 1:30 p.m., then again from 5:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. It’s closed on a Thursday. It’s pretty small, so get here early or you might have to wait a little while. They will also close early if they run out of ingredients. If you’re staying nearby, as I was (at Hotel Wing International), they also offer takeout.
Related Read: Not decided where to stay in Takayama yet, take a look at our recommendations for the best areas and the best hotels.
Evil Tex
When I saw that there was a Mexican restaurant in town and that people were raving about it, I decided to fall off the Japanese food wagon and eat another one of my favourite foods! Oh, wow, I was happy that I did!
This place is immensely popular – I got there about 6pm and had to wait about 20 minutes for a table – and I was a solo diner!
They have a good system, though; you get to peruse the menu while you wait, and if they’re super busy, they’ll take your order outside, so the kitchen is already on the case when you sit down. This means it’s not a place to linger for a long evening, but you’ll be thankful when it reduces your wait outside.
The extensive TexMex menu includes all the favourites – fajita, burritos, quesadilla and taco rice but I chose the Chicken Enchilada because I like my food accompanied by as much melted cheese and other goo as humanly possible, and this came with cheese, sour cream, salsa, and refried beans – with a side of rice.
One reason this place is so popular is that it also offers a vegetarian menu and vegan options – both on the burger side and in the Mexican dishes.
It also offers Coors and Budweiser, which, as we can’t get these in Australia, had to be done!
It’s not the cheapest option; I paid close to 3000 yen by the time I’d added beers, but it was just what I needed.
Menus are in English, and staff speak English – some exceptionally well.
Evil Tex is open from 11.30 am to 3 pm and then 5 pm to 9 pm six days a week. They close on Tuesday. It’s located close to Takayama Station.
Fancy a Curry? As you wait at Evil Tex, you’ll get wafts of amazing-smelling curries from the Royal Nan House Takayama, across the road. This is a Nepalese restaurant, and it was very, very busy by 7 pm when I finished at EvilTex. If I had been in Takayama for longer, I’d definitely have given it a try.
Jugemu
Hida beef is a specialty of Takayama. It’s a variety of wagyu beef famed for its marbling and soft texture. You can order it as skewers, but I’m not a big fan of wagyu beef, as I don’t like its texture; however, I do love croquettes, so I decided to try the minced version – and I was not disappointed.
You’ll find Hida Beef stalls all over the old town area in Takayama. I chose Jugemu on one of the main streets, mostly because it was raining and it was one of the few places without a queue. It also had a cover outside, so I could stand under that while I ate.
You order the croquette, or anything else you’d like, from the ticket machine inside the store, and they’ll serve you by the window.
As this is located in a souvenir shop, it has long opening hours. It’s open from 9.00 am to 6.00 pm Thursday to Monday, but closes at 5.00 pm on Tuesday and Wednesday.
The croquettes cost 350 yen, but they also offer Hida Beef skewers. There are four different types of these, ranging from 400 yen for a skewer made from lean beef (this would be the best choice for someone like me who doesn’t like the soft, fatty texture of wagyu). The ‘frosted’ 700 yen skewer is more marbled, and the 1200 yen skewer is a higher grade still. Lastly, they offer a heavily marbled skewer for 2000 yen.
This is also one of the places where you can buy a Sarubobo Ice Cream. And, if you don’t know what that is, you’ll want to check out our guide to sarubobo next.
Chitose
It seems yaki soba is like buses – you wait a week for one and then two come at once! Chitose is a wallet-friendly restaurant located near Evil Tex. It specialises in ramen, but also offers a bargain yaki soba.
The menu is in Japanese, but it has pictures. There are nine types of yaki soba, including plain, meat, squid-topped, shrimp-topped, one with a fried egg that I kind of regret not ordering and a mix of all of the above. The prices are amazing – you can order a small plain yaki soba for under 500 yen.
It was different from the one I’d had a Toranoya – the noodles were thinner, and, as I’d just ordered the plain one it it didn’t have any meat or vegetables, but the topping of pickled ginger was enough to spice things up – and for less than 500 yen, I was exceptional happy.
There’s also an extensive ramen menu, but as I was on a yaki soba mission, I blocked that out! I also resisted the gyoza – which is unusual for me, I admit!
Chitose has quite limited opening hours, so you’ll need to plan things if you want to visit. It’s open from 11 am to 1.45 pm and 5 pm to 6.45 pm seven days a week. It’s also located near Takayama Station.
Other Options
Those were the places I managed to visit on my trip, but I had a list of others that I wanted to try, but didn’t have enough time to do so with just two nights there. You may also want to check out…
Soup Curry Tama
This has a 4.9 Google Rating and sells a dish I haven’t seen anywhere else. It’s a curry with a very thin, soup-like sauce, packed with thick chunks of meat, vegetables, or seafood, and served with a side of rice. It’s also close to Evil Tex and Chitose near Takayama Station.
Prices start around 1200 yen for a bowl. They do have an English menu and vegetarian options. You can also choose your spice level, which goes up to a level they mark as 30 – not sure how well it’s translating, but Google Translate tells me this is ‘Buddhahood!’. It closes Wednesday and Thursday, but otherwise is open 11 am to 2.30 pm and then 5.00 pm to 8.30 pm.
なないろ
Another restaurant with excellent reviews. This is a ramen restaurant, and one of their specialities is Takayama ramen, which features a thin broth, thin, curly noodles, and is topped with pork, green onions, bamboo shoots and seaweed. They also sell other dishes, including a Tonkatsu ramen and a Hida beef-fried rice. The owner speaks English. It’s closed on Saturday and Sunday.
If you don’t want to go back toward the station, you’ll also find Takayama Ramen at Kajibashi near the old town. This is where the picture above was taken.
Tohouen
Not meals this time, but sweets – or souvenirs. This confectionery shop sells very cute mochi in the shape of cat heads and cat paws.
They also have a lot of seasonal sweets – so, you might find mochi shaped like the animal for the lunar new year, or, in spring, they have green ‘kasu mochi’ which are cloured and flavoured with mugwort.
Tohouen is open 9 a.m to 6 p.m six days a week. They are closed on Tuesdays. You’ll find them around halfway between Takayama Station and the old town. They are located on the west side of the river.
Need Extra Planning Help?
Our Japan trip planners can help. You might like our First-Timers Japan Planner, which will help you plan your trip to Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka step-by-step, including tips on everything from picking hotels to sightseeing and dining. Or our super-duper Tokyo Disney Planner makes arranging your park trip MUCH easier. Find them in our Planners store – printable and digital versions are available.
Looking for Something a Bit More Upscale?
I tend to err on the cheap and cheerful side when dining, but if you’re looking for something a bit more upscale, here are a few places to consider in Takayama.
Hidatakayama Hidagyu Hidakisetsuryori Sakana.
It’s located a little bit out of town, but chef Hayao Imai specialises in dishes made from local ingredients, including mountain vegetables which he forages for himself.
They serve course meals – so you don’t choose from a menu, the chef chooses for you. Prices depend on the season but start at 16,800 yen per person. Reservations are essential.
The restaurant is open seven days a week from 12 noon to 3 p.m and then 5.30 p.m to 9.30 pm.
Kakushyo
Or, here’s something a bit different. Kakushyo offers a vegetarian kaiseki meal. It has been serving the people of Takayama for over 250 years, and one of its menus is even featured in the local museum. Make a booking via ByFood.com
They are open seven days a week 11.30 a.m to 1.30 p.m then 5.30 p.m to 7 p.m. Expect to pay between 3600 and 10,000 yen per head depending on the course ordered and the time of day. Lunch is cheaper than dinner.
Shuntei Nakagawa
Located in an old Japanese house in the heart of the old town, this Michelin-starred teppanyaki restaurant serves a blend of French and Japanese cuisine, featuring local produce such as vegetables, seafood, and Hida Beef. This means you might start with a dish like pâté made from local pork and then move on to a dish of Hida beef and vegetables cooked on the teppanyaki grill, and then finish with cheese for dessert.
It’s beautifully presented. Expect to pay around 6,000 yen per head for a few courses served la carte, or the course meals are 11,000 yen. You can dine cheaper at lunch. Make a reservation via byfood here.
And there you have it. Our guide to where to eat in Takayama. Bon Appetit as they might say in Shuntei Nakagawa!
