Where to Eat, Drink and Stay in Asakusa

Tokyo is primarily a modern city, but, you’ll find pockets of tradition dotted among the neon – and one of these in Asakusa. Home to one of Tokyo’s most important shrines, Senso-ji – and, winding atmospheric backstreets, there’s a chance you’ll end up here at some point on your trip – our Asakusa guide covers what you should do when you get here.

Article by Helen Foster. Disclosure: Some links in this post are affiliate links. See our Affiliate Disclosure.

Where is Asakusa?

It’s located in east Tokyo, slightly north of Tokyo Station.

The nearest big station to Asakusa is Ueno (connected to Narita airport by the Kesei Skyliner), but it’s connected to the city via two smaller stations (confusingly both called Asakusa) which are on the Ginza subway line, the Toei Asakusa lines – including direct connections to Haneda Airport – and the Tobu line which makes day trips to Nikko easy.

The other Asakusa station is served by the Tsukuba Express which makes hopping to Akihabara simple.

Asakusa is located on the west side of the Sumida River, but, some of the main sights around here like Tokyo Skytree are on the east. Strictly, this isn’t Asakusa, but, I’m going to include them as you’ll probably visit them while you’re here.

4 Main Sights in Asakusa

Just four sights, why am I bothering coming over here then? you might be thinking – but, while these are the big ticket items, wandering the backstreets of Asakusa is part of the fun, you’ll find shrines, temples, gardens, cute cartoon statues, and, might even spot a geisha as you wander. You need to spend at least a half day here – and it’s a great place for a night’s drinking and dining as well.

1. Senso-ji

Probably the most recognizable temple in Tokyo, this huge complex is known for the giant gate and lantern that stands at its main entrance – but, it consists of at least 10 different buildings, a pretty garden that often gets ignored – and an entire shopping street full of snacks and souvenirs.

One of the nicest things about staying in Asakusa, rather than just visiting for the day is that you can come and see Senso-ji at different times of day – allowing you to beat the crowds, but also to see the sunset behind the pagoda or, the complex lit with glowing orange lanterns – and pretty much devoid of people.

2. Kappabashi Dori

Known as Tokyo’s Kitchen Street this road is where Tokyo’s restauranteurs go to restock their kitchens. This might not make it sound appealing to the average tourist, but the shops are open to the public so if you want to buy chef’s knives, chopsticks, or Japanese tea sets or serving bowls (the reason author Jonelle Patrick set her book The Last Tea Bowl Thief here) you’re going to want to visit.

Kappabashi Dori is also home to shops that sell the amazing plastic food replicas you see outside bars and restaurants. It’s fun to visit the shops to see these—and note the astronomical prices associated with some of them.

Also, make sure you look up – there are some cool giant cooking-themed models on the roofs of the buildings.

You can also take some interesting tours here. There are knife buying tours, plastic food experiences, and this tour that takes you shopping for all sorts of Japanese cookware and bowls.

3. Asahi Beer Hall

You’ll spot this building as you look across the river to Tokyo Skytree – one of the buildings is designed to look like a glass of beer – gold with a white top – while its companion building is topped with a golden flame, often referred to as the golden poop.

Inside you’ll find a top-floor bar serving Asahi’s latest brews with a view – or, a downstairs bar where you can sit with a pint and watch the world go by.

4. Tokyo Skytree

Japan’s tallest structure, this 634 building offers knee-trembling views over Tokyo – including a piece of glass floor that I had to hang onto the wall to get past!

Here’s a fun fact I only learned today while I was checking the height of Skytree – its height was decided because the numbers 634 in old Japanese are written mu-sa-shi – which is also the old name of the area upon which it sits.

Underneath it is Solemachi Mall, which includes 17 shops for lovers of cute characters, including Studio Ghibli, Hello Kitty, Jump Shop (which includes One Piece merchandise), and the famous Kirby Cafe (advance reservations essential).

Next door is the branch of conveyor belt sushi restaurant Kura Sushi which is currently the largest sushi train in the world – sadly, you don’t see it snaking around the building as you are seated in individual booths, but it’s still a good cheap place to grab lunch over here. Every five plates also get you the chance to play a game.

If You’re Traveling To Asakusa in May

During the third full weekend in May, Asakusa is home to one of Tokyo’s nosiest, busiest, and most important festivals – the Sanja Matsuri.

In this groups from each of the different areas within Asakusa, parade around the streets carrying decorative floats on their shoulders. On Saturday, 100 floats of different sizes, including children’s floats, take part, on Sunday three enormous floats start with a huge jostle off in the grounds of Asakusa shrine before they are paraded around the streets. Two million people come to watch across the weekend.

One of the really interesting things about this festival is that the yakuza openly take part – many of them with their full tattoos on show.

One of the highlights of my last trip was getting caught up with their float on Saturday – watching the hierarchy between the group, which was obvious even during this fun event, was fascinating, and, after a few smiles, older members were getting their friends to pose for my camera.

Being in the middle of about fifty members of the Japanese underworld chanting ‘yakuza, yakuza’ is an experience I’ll never forget. And no, none of them are pictured here – those pics are for my eyes only.

Even once the parade has passed, the streets of Asakusa have a party atmosphere all weekend as people sink a few beers after their stint carrying the heavy floats, and you’ll spot lots of other fun activities like people cracking tiles with their bare hands, in the backstreets.

If you get the chance to visit Asakusa when Sanja Matsuri is on, do not miss it – and see below for a sneaky hotel tip that might get you a bird’s eye view from bed!

Where to Eat in Asakusa

As with much of Tokyo, you’ll find roads full of restaurants serving every kind of dish – Japanese or otherwise – in Asakusa, but a few interesting places to check out are…

Onigiri Asakusa Tadoroku

Every day from my room at the Hotel MONday, I could see a queue of people lining up against a small door – I should have known food was involved.

And behind that curtain is a tiny restaurant, good enough to be listed in the Michelin Guide, and serving since 1954!

They specialize in onigiri, rice balls with filling, with at least 12 different varieties on offer. They have an English menu and take only cash. Get there early and plan to queue for a little while. They’re open for lunch six days a week, but only open in the evening a couple of nights a week – and even then they might also close early if they run out of rice.

See prices, opening hours, and how the menus work on their webpage.

Komokata Dojo

Established in 1801, and serving the same menu even now. The specialty of this restaurant is loach – a type of eel-like fish with a distinctive bitter taste. The fish eaten whole is bony, but, you can buy it in a stew that makes the bones soft and edible.

It’s not going to be a place for everyone – not least as it serves whale – but, if you’re a more adventurous foodie you might want to give this very traditional restaurant a try. You will likely have to sit on the floor, so bear that in mind.

See more and learn about the different dishes they serve via their website.

Kikuya

One of the shops in the shopping arcade leading up to Senso-ji Temple, Kikuya is known for its sticks of mochi – it’s where Instagram celebrity, and tour guide, Cyber Bunny took Eugene Levy to try it when she showed him around for The Reluctant Traveler (if you liked the show read our list of the other spots Euguene visited). Stop off on your way back from the temple.

Tonkatsu Sugita

Another Michelin-listed restaurant this one specializes in Tonkatsu – pork fillet in breadcrumbs and has a unique cooking process in that the pork is fried three times at different temperatures to change its flavor. The dish is served with cabbage and sauces.

Again, you might need to queue. It’s open for lunch and dinner six days a week – closed on Thursday. Note, by dinner I mean early evening. It closes at 8.30 pm.

Ninja Experience Cafe Asakusa

Want to throw ninja stars, play with a blow dart, wave a sword, and drink ninja-sized amounts of sake with your dinner you’ll join thousands of very happy customers at the Ninja Cafe Experience.

It’s great fun if you’re traveling with kids.

Image: Ninja Cafe Experience, used with permission

Bookings are essential and should be made well in advance. You order by package where you can just decide between ninja training and a drink, or, the full package of training, outfit, drink, dinner, and a short tour of Asakusa (in a ninja outfit) so check their website to see what each includes.

Or, you can also book via Klook if you’re using them for other tickets on our travels.

They also have branches in Harajuku, Osaka, and Kyoto if you don’t have time to visit them in Asakusa – but, would like to visit during another part of your trip.

Drinking in Asakusa

Again, you won’t be lacking in choice as tiny izakayas and standing bars can be found in every back street, but here are a few places that we liked.

Hoppy Street

This is the main drinking area in Asakusa, a row of izakayas with indoor and outdoor seating that attracts a mix of locals and tourists. Any of these is a good place to sit and watch the world go by.

My favorite stop was Izakaya Koji which served Zima and potato salad – two of the things I must have in Japan (despite neither of them being traditionally Japanese, they are the only place I ever have them!)

Bar Tokyo Brain

I didn’t have time to get here, but it was on my list because everyone raves about how friendly it is – particularly to tourists. They make their own limoncello which could be dangerously hangover-making! Go check it out and see what I missed. Find the location and hours on their instagram.

Kamiya

The bar I wanted to visit most in Asakusa, has been here for years and is known for its brandy-like drink Denki Bran. Order a shot of this with a beer. The bar is full of people enjoying an after-work tipple.

They are closed on Tuesdays, and two Mondays a month. Check the exact dates and current opening hours at the Kamiya website.

Ninja Bar

No, not the one suggested above, this one in the underground walkways around exit 6 of the Tobu Railway Asakusa station is famous for its cool interior and selection of sake – oh, and you get the chance to do karaoke too (with outfits)!

The opening hours have been extended since we were there. They are now open six days a week, from 3.00 on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Check the exact hours here.

Recommended Hotels in Asakusa

For my first actual stay in Asakusa, I picked Hotel MONday as the best mix of cheap pricing and a spacious room, and I was not disappointed.

Especially when I realized that many of the floats of the Sanja Matsuri were assembling right outside the door – and that we had the most amazing bird’s eye view from the window in our room.

If you’re traveling here in May, you should definitely check to see if rooms are available.

The only slight downside is that it’s not that near a station, but we quickly mastered the buses, which took us everywhere we needed to go.

I also stayed in the Hen na Hotel Asakusa Tawaramachi, which was a bit better for transport. This is also one of the robot hotels in Tokyo, which are a lot of fun.

If I stay here again, I’d pick the Gate Hotel Kaminarimon, as it’s right in the middle of everything.

Or for a family, I’d book the very conveniently located, Mimaru Tokyo Asakusa Station.

My Tips For Visiting/Staying in Asakusa

Make sure you know which Asakusa Station your hotel is close to as they are both served by different train lines. The one close to the river connects better with the rest of Tokyo.

The area is bigger than you think. From Hotel MONday was easier for us to catch a bus to Ueno or another nearby station than to walk to Asakusa Station.

If you are coming back to Tokyo by bullet train from Osaka or Kyoto, or going toward either place, you might want to use Shinagawa as your transfer station instead of Tokyo Station. It’s smaller than Tokyo station so easier to traverse, and an easy connection from Asakusa metro station.

Make the most of the access to Senso-ji and explore it when it’s lit up at night. Also, go out early in the morning – there’s some cool shutter art on the shops that you can only see when they are closed.

Hoppy Street is fun, but, many of the bars charge seat fees and/or ask you to order at least one drink and one food item – this is fine if you’re there for the night, but it makes bar hopping very expensive. Choose carefully.

Hoppy Street is named after a drink called Hoppy. This is described as a non-alcoholic beer-flavored drink – which sounds kind of healthy right? Erm, no – you don’t drink Hoppy solo, it’s added to an alcoholic drink called shochu – and it’s very moreish but surprisingly strong!

The traditional dish of Hoppy Street is a beef tendon stew – it’s not bad, but a bit fatty. It comes in very small portions so it’s worth trying though.

There’s a great view over Senso-ji from the top floor of the Asakusa Tourist Information Office opposite. It’s open into the evening so you can go up there as the sun goes down. You can also see Tokyo Skytree – it’s where I took the picture above of the skyline.

The crowds up and down Kannondori shopping can get big, which can be irritating if you’re not shopping. The small roads running parallel to it behind the shop can be quieter and still lead you up toward the main hall at Senso-ji.

So, there’s our basic guide to Asakusa. Hopefully, you’ve found some things you’d like to try there—or maybe you’ve even decided to stay there. If you do have any questions, though, we have a Facebook group where you can ask them.

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