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Hoping to see a geisha (or geiko as they are known in Kyoto) is one of the reasons many people visit Kyoto – but it got a bit harder to do when the Gion South Side District Council, who look after the geisha/geiko district, announced it was banning tourists from some roads in Gion from April 2024. Here’s what you need to know…
Article by Helen Foster. Disclosure: Some links in this post are affiliate links. See our Affiliate Disclosure.
The mismatch between the tourists wanting to see Japanese workers going about their daily business, and those people wanting privacy is not new – it’s one of the reasons that the new fish market in Toyosu stopped people from walking through the stalls when it moved, restricting tourists, instead, to an overhead walkway – and it has also long been an issue for the geiko in Kyoto.
The result was that in 2019, a photo ban was put in place in the south side of Gion where many geiko (geisha) work, and, recently, a code of conduct for tourists has also been drawn up.
The problem is not everyone is paying attention to this, or the photo ban. Not only were people snapping photos of geiko and maiko (apprentice geisha/geiko) from a distance, but some were even grabbing them as they traveled to work to get them to stop for photos.
This has led the local council to take more drastic action.
They announced that from April 2024, tourists will no longer be allowed on private roads in part of the Gion area of Kyoto. These tend to be the roads that lead to the teahouses where geiko work.
So, What Does This Mean For Your Trip?
The good news is, probably not much. The council who made the ruling looks after Southern Gionmachi, a very small area of Gion, and the one square kilometer area you already can’t take photos in.
As a rough marker on the map, look for a restaurant called Gion Takahashi. The area is in the streets around this and some roads around are those affected by the ban.
I’ve also made a map on Google Maps with the exact roads according to Japanese news reports – excuse my slightly dodgy drawing. If a line goes very so slightly into a road, that main road is fine. There’s a reason I’m not an artist. These may change if other road owners get involved so, use it as a guide, but, be careful to look out for any physical ‘no entry’ signs when you visit.
The areas affected are those roads owned by the geiko teahouses, and other residents or businesses, who don’t want their staff harassed while they are trying to go to work, or their property damaged as people try and get the perfect pictures which has also been happening.
As the saying goes – this is why we can’t have nice things!
You can still visit areas like Shirakawa Minami, known as the prettiest road in Kyoto, all the main temples including those around Gion like Yasaka Shrine, and the photogenic streets of Higashiyama. Pontocho Alley is also not affected.
You also won’t be stopped from staying in hotels in Gion or visiting the bars and restaurants that are open to tourists. You’ll also be able to walk along the main street in Gion called Hanamikoji as this is a public road.
To give you an idea of what this means, all of the pictures in this post are taken in Gion outside of the affected area – there are still plenty of pretty areas in Gion you can still visit, and lots of Kyoto still to explore.
How Will They Enforce This?
Like the photo ban, the closed roads are signified by signs within this small area. If a resident reports you, the police can be called, and there is a fine of up to 10,000 yen (and possible prison time) for obstructing someone’s path in the area and a fine of up to 500,000 yen for grabbing hold of someone (and up to six months in prison).
There are also fines for trespassing in the area.
Now, this shouldn’t panic you – if you accidentally take a wrong turn and end up walking down a private road, there’s not going to be a team of police chasing you down, plus, as Chris from Abroad in Japan pointed out in a tweet, ‘I actually don’t see how this is going to work, given those streets/alleys are packed with restaurants that rely on foot traffic,’ but, if you are hanging around the area and, particularly if you are taking photos of, or obstructing, geiko and maiko, expect to at least get challenged and maybe even fined.
But I Wanted to See a Geiko…
And you still can – in an organized experience. The best way to interact with a geiko in Kyoto has always been to book one of the experiences in Kyoto run by a geiko or maiko – these can include meals, tea ceremonies, and dance performances. Not only does this guarantee a sighting of one, you’ll also learn about geisha/geiko culture and be able to take photographs of a geiko or maiko who is happy for you to do so.
Some of the ones you might want to consider include…
Dinner with a Geiko
In this experience, you will take a short tour of Gion and learn about the art of being a geisha/geiko. Then you’ll visit a restaurant for dinner with a geiko, followed by a dance performance.
Lunch or Dinner with a Maiko
A maiko is an apprentice geiko and In this experience, you can eat a meal with a Maiko in attendance, ask her questions, and learn about some of the games they play with guests.
Geiko/Maiko Tea Ceremony
Take part in a tea ceremony conducted by a geiko or maiko. This is a group experience, but you can also reserve a private tea ceremony. See more about both here.
Watch a Dance Performance
There are also nightly geiko dance performances at 6 pm and 7 pm at the Gion Corner Cultural Centre. You can book tickets in advance here.
The April Dances
If you’re visiting Kyoto in April, you can watch the geiko dance at the annual Miyako Odori performances. There are three performances a day – book tickets in advance here.
So, that’s what you need to know about the new rules limiting access to some roads in Kyoto for tourists. The take-home point is, that this isn’t going to ruin your holiday, you’re still going to be able to enjoy Kyoto and see most of its pretty streets, it’s just a tiny handful that might be out of bounds.
Who Writes This Blog?
My name is Helen Foster, and I’m a journalist and author. My travel articles have appeared in publications including The Australian, Escape, RAC Horizons, Jetstar Magazine, Sainsbury’s Magazine, and more.
I’ve traveled to Japan eight times before – solo and with my partner and visited over 25 towns and cities. My last visit was November 2024 so, everything here is pretty up to date.
