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Both make a fantastic day trip from Tokyo or a short stay to get a break from the hustle and bustle of Japan’s cities – but, if you only have time to visit one, which should it be? Our guide helps you pick the right option for you.
Article by Helen Foster. Disclosure: Some links in this post are affiliate links. See our Affiliate Disclosure.
What to Expect at Either Place
Hakone
Hakone is a relaxed mountain resort area known for hot springs and nature. The vibe is calm and slightly nostalgic, with ryokan inns, lakeside views, and forested hills.
Its’ most famous sight is the Hakone Loop, a fun journey that includes trains, cable cars, ropeways, boats, and buses and visits everything from shrines to steaming sulphur fields.
Other Hakone highlights include views of Mount Fuji on clear days, an amazing open-air art gallery, the lakeside torii gate, and the chance to relax in an onsen or surrounded by nature.
Kawaguchiko
Kawaguchiko is a small town at the northern base of Mount Fuji; I’m using it as the main destination in this piece as it’s the one most people have heard of, but the advice also covers other nearby towns like Fujiyoshida.
The focus here really is the lake and seeing Mount Fuji, which dominates almost every view on a clear day – and hides frustratingly on a lot more of them.
Other attractions include small museums like the incredible Kubota Ichiko Art Museum (which is actually about kimono) and reconstructed villages like Oshino Hakkai or Saiko Iyashi-no-Sato Nemba. The Fuji Q Highland theme park is also a short train ride away.
Differences At a Glance
- Main draw: Hakone offers variety – art museums, volcanoes, shrines, temples and the famous Loop; Kawaguchiko is primarily about enjoying amazing Mount Fuji views.
- Crowds: The loop in Hakone gets really busy; outside of this, you can escape the crowds. Kawaguchiko gets packed with day trippers but is quieter overnight. Avoid both at weekends if you can.
- Mount Fuji views: Seeing Fuji is a bonus in Hakone and definitely not guaranteed; Kawaguchiko offers more options for close-up, iconic views if the weather is right.
- Getting around: Hakone has multiple transport options with a fantastic bus service; Kawaguchiko has trains and a very easy-to-use tourist bus system. It’s also easy to walk or cycle around the lake.
- Accommodation style: Both offer hotels with onsens and beautiful, quiet surroundings, and cater for all budgets. You can pick from staying in the small towns in each region or book stays surrounded by nature.
- Pace of travel: Hakone suits travellers who like ticking off multiple sights; Kawaguchiko suits slower, scenic stays.
That might be enough to help you decide which is better for you – but, just in case, here’s what to ask yourself.
Are You Visiting Mostly to See Mount Fuji?
Mount Fuji is quite elusive – sometimes it might only appear for a few hours, if at all. For this reason, if your main reason for visiting is to see Mount Fuji, then I would say head to Kawaguchiko, do not pass go!
For starters, you have more places with views from Kawaguchiko and the other towns around it; in Hakone, the mountain is only visible from a few points. This means that in Hakone, you need to be at one of those spots at the same time as the weather and cloud cover are working in your favour, which limits your chances.
In Kawaguchiko, you just need a break in the clouds for a magical view to appear pretty much anywhere. And there are so many different types of views; from beautiful lake reflections, carpets of flowers with the mountain seemingly sitting on top, crimson pagodas, vending machines with Fuji san behind them showing the best mix of modern and old Japan – if the weather is right, photographers won’t be able to stop snapping!
Views of Fuji in Hakone are glimpses; views from Kawaguchiko and the nearby area will stop you in your tracks.
Related Read: If you are visiting to see Mount Fuji, using a Fuji visiblity planner is key to having the best day. Our guide explains how they work.
Do You Want an Action-Packed Day?
Kawaguchiko is very much about seeing the mountain and there are all sorts of ways to do so, including climbing up to pretty pagodas, riding ropeways, you can even float around the lake on a giant swan – but, if the mountain isn’t playing ball, there are not so many headline sights to pass the time and those that are here are rather spread out.
Hakone has a bit more variety to offer – there’s the famous Loop involving shrines, Pirate Boats and ropeways floating above steaming volcanic landscape.
There’s a world-class sculpture museum and many more smaller museums. You can even try your hand at glassblowing. If you need to be busy, busy, busy during your visit, Hakone might have a bit more to offer.
I also think Hakone is likely to be a better choice if you’re travelling with children, as there’s a bit more to keep them occupied than just seeing pretty views.
Related Read: 10 Things to do in Hakone – that aren’t the Loop
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How Are You With Crowds?
Both destinations are busy – especially at weekends. The Hakone Loop can feel a bit like sheep herding (which is why I suggest you do it early and backwards) and, as you can see from the picture below, some popular sights might have queues for pictures, but away from the Loop, you can find pockets of quiet in Hakone.
There were only two other tourists at the fantastic Choan-ji temple when I visited, and many of the museums were quietly busy. I never felt herded or rushed.
The headline sights in and around Kawaguchiko can become horrendous when the tour buses arrive – famous sights like the Churieto Pagoda or the Shimoyoshida street view will have queues in peak season.
The buses getting you around the lake can also be jam-packed.
Get away from the headline sights to avoid the crowds, or stay overnight so you can visit popular spots before most people arrive or after they leave. The Mount Fuji region is one place in Japan where it can pay to hire a car.
Where Are You Coming From?
Getting to both places from Tokyo is easy. There are direct trains to both destinations from Shinjuku; however, if you are coming from Kyoto or Osaka, then Hakone is marginally easier to access. Here’s why…
To get to Kawaguchiko from Kyoto or Osaka: This takes around 3 hours and 45 minutes, longer if you don’t take an Express Bus.
Yes, that’s right – there’s a bus. You need to catch the Shinkansen to Mishima Station, then transfer to the bus to take you to Kawaguchiko.
If you do decide to do this, make sure you book the bus in advance as it does sell out. Bookings open one month before the day you wish to travel, and the website is here.
To get to Hakone from Kyoto or Osaka: It can take as little as 2 hours and 10 minutes to reach Hakone Yumoto at the entrance to Hakone.
The journey usually sees you taking the Shinkansen to Nagoya, then changing to a stopping service to Odawara (there are a few direct trains at some points in the day).
From Odawara, you take the Hakone Tozen line to Hakone Yumoto – or onward to other stops in the region.
Read This if You Are Arriving at Odawara: Three things I wish I’d known about arriving in Hakone
Need Extra Planning Help?
Our Japan trip planners can help. You might like our First-Timers Japan Planner, which will help you plan your trip to Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka step-by-step, including tips on everything from picking hotels to sightseeing and dining. Or our super-duper Tokyo Disney Planner makes arranging your park trip MUCH easier. Find them in our Planners store – printable and digital versions are available.
What’s the Weather Doing?
If the weather is going to be dry, both are beautiful and scenic, but if you’re travelling in a rainier season, you might want to be more strategic.
Personally, I would not go to Kawaguchiko again if it’s raining. The whole place is based around seeing the mountain, which is not only less likely on rainy days, but it also requires being outside.
If it’s hosing it down, there are very few indoor activities to keep you busy, barring a few museums – and these aren’t an easy walk away from each other.
My first day in Kawaguchiko was rainy and miserable – although visiting the kimono museum and my hotel onsen meant I still enjoyed it, and the rain stopped and clouds cleared enough for me to get a gorgeous Fuji view before sunset – but when I woke up the next day, and it was raining again, I cancelled all my plans and got on the next bus back to Tokyo as I didn’t know what else I’d do.
In Hakone, though, you could easily enjoy a day inside. The Loop isn’t going to be much fun in bad weather, and the ropeway will actually close in high winds, but Hakone has more interesting indoor museums (I loved the Venetian Glass Museum on my trip) and other ways to pass the time.
It also feels easier to get around Hakone in bad weather as there are multiple transport options.
Do You Want to Visit an Onsen?
You’re a bit spoilt for choice here as both destinations have natural hot springs flowing underneath them, so you’ll find onsen hotels in both regions.
Although I think Hakone nudges slightly ahead for its variety of choice of accommodation with onsen, from tiny ryokan with private baths to giant hot springs hotels with multiple bathing opportunities and entertainment, they also have public onsens if you are only coming for the day, and even some tattoo-friendly properties.
If you’re travelling as a family, you could also visit Yunessen, the onsen theme park – one of the few places you can experience hot springs culture while wearing swimsuits.
This was the gorgeous private onsen in my Hakone hotel, The Mount View.
However, before you rush off to book, don’t discount Kawaguchiko. There is also something really special about sitting in an onsen and seeing the mountain towering over you.
You don’t even have to pay a fortune for this. My budget hotel, the Kawaguchiko Station Hotel, had a Mount Fuji view from its (basic) public bath – I also had a fantastic view from my room as well.
Or look at properties like La Vista Fujikawaguchiko, which has open-air baths on some balconies, with mountain views.
Are You Looking for Nightlife
Don’t bother – stay in Tokyo! No, seriously, much of Hakone and Kawaguchiko are early-to-bed towns with limited potential for nighttime activities.
From my research, Fujiyoshida, the town next to Kawaguchiko, does have a bit more of a bar scene – although check reviews as some of the smaller bars will prefer to serve local customers over tourists. I’m staying there on my next trip, so I’ll report back afterwards!
I hope this has helped you decide between Mount Fuji and Hakone. If you want to visit both on your trip, you can catch a bus between them – you could end up with the best of both worlds.
Who Writes This Blog?
My name is Helen Foster, and I’m a journalist and author. My travel articles have appeared in publications including The Australian, Escape, RAC Horizons, Jetstar Magazine, Sainsbury’s Magazine, and more.
I’ve traveled to Japan eight times before – solo and with my partner and visited over 25 towns and cities. My last visit was November 2024 so, everything here is pretty up to date.
