Nagano, Takayama and Kanazawa – Five Day Itinerary for the New Golden Route

There’s more than one way to get between Tokyo and Kyoto – and in this plan, you’ll take the long way via the Japanese Alps region, heading past Nagano, Takayama and Kanazawa (and a few smaller spots) on the way. This region is incredibly scenic, full of traditional sights and a bit more nature than the original Golden Route people tend to take – and, right now, has a fraction of the crowds. Here’s our 5-Day plan to discover it. 

Admittedly, five days isn’t quite enough to see all the interesting sights or cities on this route; for that, you need 7 or 10 days, but you can cover these three pretty and popular cities – and a few cute villages as well. 

Let’s Start with the Logistics…

To cover this route, you’ll take a train line called the Hokuriku Shinkansen that travels in an arch between Tokyo and Kanazawa. Trains on this route leave Tokyo from either Tokyo Station or Ueno. The latter is the better choice if you are staying in Asakusa. 

The fastest train covering this route is the Kagayaki, which is one of the shinkansen trains that requires a seat reservation, so it’s a good idea to book this in advance as soon as you decide what time you want to leave Tokyo. 

You can do this at the station once you arrive in Japan, or if you prefer to be organised, book the tickets online via either the JR East direct website or a third-party service like Klook. The SmartEx app, which you may have read about, does not cover this route.

If the day is clear, you might see Mount Fuji from this train, so try to sit on the left-hand side to get the best chance of a view.

Oh, and in a last piece of housekeeping, unlike the other Shinkansen line that runs between Tokyo and Kyoto, you don’t need to book special seats on the Hokuriku line if you have larger luggage. You can either put your bags above your head, by your feet, or in the luggage racks in each compartment.

Okay, time to get onto the important bit. Where to stop?

Day 1 – Nagano

Leave Tokyo around 8-9 am to arrive in Nagano by mid-morning. It takes about 80 minutes to get here from Tokyo Station.

I’d suggest staying near the station so you can quickly leave your bags at your hotel, then walk or take the bus to Zenko-ji Temple, the main sight in Nagano City.

This is a lot larger than it might look, as it has extensive grounds and sub-temples, with a lot of interesting small details to try and spot (see our quirky Zenko-ji guide on our sister blog Differentville for an idea of what to see). Allow 2-3 hours for exploring here.

Want to make the Most of your Time? Book a Zenkoji tour here.

PM: Monkeys, Art or Castles – Oh My!

How you spend your afternoon may vary depending on your interests, time of year and how far outside of Nagano you want to travel. But you could pick from these.

Go and See the Snow Monkeys

If it’s between November and March, you might want to catch the train or bus to Yudunaka, the jumping-off point to visit the famous Snow Monkeys. At other times of the year, you might see some monkeys, but they won’t be sitting in the hot springs. Check our guide to visiting the Snow Monkeys for advice on routes and tips on what to expect when you arrive.

Enjoy Some Art

If you’re an art enthusiast, take a trip to the Nagano Prefectural Art Museum. Make sure you catch the Fujiko Nakaya fog exhibit – check timings in advance. Then take the train for 33 minutes along the Nagano Dentetsu Line to the small town of Obuse.

Obuse is where the famous Japanese artist Hokusai, painter of the Great Wave off Kanagawa and other famous works, spent the last years of his life, and there is a museum of his art here. He also painted a large work on the ceiling of the Ganshoin temple just outside town. Obuse is a pretty town to walk around – make sure you grab one of the chestnut-based snacks to keep you going.

If you’d prefer to book a tour of Obuse, there is one here that covers the Hokusai Museum and some other interesting sights in the town.

Visit Matsumoto

It takes approximately 50 minutes by train, via the JR Shimano line, to get to Matsumoto from Nagano, and trains run regularly, making this a convenient half-day trip. You won’t get to see everything the city has to offer in half a day, but you could visit the art museum, the castle, Frog Street and the main shopping area.

Our guide to Matsumoto plots a simple route to see all of these and a couple of smaller sights.

Shrine Stamps & Showa Shops

If you prefer to stay in Nagano itself, you could take the Seven Lucky Gods’ Shrine Walk and collect the different stamps, or wander around the retro Gondo shopping area. I only had time to dine here at night and really regretted not being able to walk around the cool, old shops while they were open during the day.

Or try a Let’s Roam self-guided tour, which sees you solving clues and travelling around the city scavenger-hunt-style, to find places you might not discover on your own.

How to Spend Your Evening

The main dining areas in Nagano are Gondo and around the station. I wasn’t well when I was here, so I didn’t explore either to the fullest. I would have loved to do this local bar tour to get a feel for the area. As I was, I just went for a soothing dumpling soup at Orion in Gondo.

Where I Stayed in Nagano

I chose the Chisun Grand Nagano. It had one of the comfiest beds I’ve slept in during my time in Japan! If it’s booked out, or not your style, check out our guide on where to stay in Nagano for more ideas, including temple stays.

Day 2: Hida Furukawa and Takayama

Today you’ll travel to Takayama via Hida Furukawa, but before you leave Nagano, you might want to get up early for a unique experience.

At Sunrise

One special thing about staying in Nagano is the opportunity to participate in the O-asaji, morning service at Zenkoji. This occurs at exactly sunrise (to the minute) every morning.

If you booked a temple stay, access to this will likely be arranged for you; if you haven’t, or it isn’t, then you’ll find the instructions here to either attend the blessing outside, which does not require a ticket, or the full ceremony in the inner sanctum, which does. The site also provides the exact time of the ceremony, as it varies slightly from day to day.

AM: Hida Furukawa

Catch the Shinkansen to Toyama, then take the Hida line south to the small town of Hida Furukawa. During the warmer months, this friendly town is famous for the koi carp that swim along the town’s canals – it’s an amazing sight to see, and I loved the few hours I spent here.

See our full guide on what to do in Hida Furukawa to help plan your day and make sure you don’t miss anything.

PM: Takayama Old Town

After a few hours exploring Hida Furukawa, catch the train 15 minutes further south to Takayama. There is one train an hour – the Takayama Line is cheaper than using the Hida Line if you can make the timings work (find the timetable here or use the Navitime app)

Takayama is famous for its old town, a three-block area of charming wooden houses that now house shops and restaurants. You can easily wander around it in an afternoon, although it does get a little busy with day trippers.

On your first afternoon, I’d suggest exploring the Old Town area and the fun retro Showa Museum. Depending on when you arrive in Takayama, you may want to head to your hotel to check in around 4 pm, or stay out exploring.

However, whatever you do, at some point today or tomorrow, make sure to visit the Old Town after the shops have closed and the day trippers have gone home. It’s a different world, and when the streets are at their prettiest – especially if you’re there just before sunset when the Golden Hour light hits and the street lamps come on.

Where to Spend Your Evening 

Restaurants in the old town close early, so either plan to dine here as soon as you’ve finished your early evening wander, or instead head to the area around Asahi-Machi or the area around the station, where there is a greater selection of bars and restaurants.

Check our guide to dining in Takayama for ideas of where to spend your evening.

Where I Stayed in Takayama

I stayed at the modern Hotel Wing International – now called Koko Hotel Hida Takayama – and the onsite onsen was very welcome at the end of long days of sightseeing. But for more ideas, check our guide on where to stay in Takayama. 

Day 3: Takayama

This morning, visit the Miyagawa morning markets and the Sakurayama Hachimangu Shrine. The shrine grounds are also home to the Matsuri Yatai Kaikan. This showcases the amazing floats that take part in the twice-yearly Matsuri Parade, offering an incredible opportunity to see them up close.

Also, be sure not to miss the Sakurayama Nikkokan – this features scale models of the famous temples in Nikko, and it was my favourite thing in Takayama. Allow 2-3 hours to get all of this done.

PM: More Takayama Wanderings

In the afternoon, you could revisit the Old Town and spend more time tasting sake, trying Hida Beef or shopping. You could also take in the Higashiyama Shrine Walk, or go in search of Takayama’s cutest mascot, the Sarubobo. Or, take a bus down to the Hido No Sato Open Air Museum, or take time to relax in one of the many hotel onsens in Takayama.

To prevent this from turning into a book, you’ll find fuller details of all of the Takayama sights mentioned in our guide to the top 10 Takayama sights. 

Day 4: Shirakawa-go & Kanazawa

Time to move on again – you can go straight to Kanazawa from Takayama, but, the bus that does this goes via the small village of Shirakawa-go, so it seems silly not to stop off for at least an hour.

AM: Shirakawa-go

You’ve probably seen pictures of Shirakawa-go – it’s the village full of thatched houses with pointed roofs, and it is very, very pretty. 

You want to get here early, so try to arrive on one of the first buses of the morning. These do fill up, so make sure you reserve in advance. Find the timetable and details on how to reserve the buses.

I messed up my visit to Shirakawa-go a bit and didn’t enjoy it perhaps as much as I could have. Make sure to read this guide, which outlines what I wish I‘d known before visiting Shirakawa-go, so you don’t make the same mistakes. 

PM: Arrive in Kanazawa

Leave Shirakawago around noon. Again, it’s a good idea to reserve the bus so you know you have a seat. This will bring you into Kanazawa by about 2pm. 

Depending on where you’re staying, you might want to save lunch to try some excellent fresh sushi from Omicho Market (my hotel, the Forza, was just steps away). From here it’s a short walk to the very pretty streets of Kazuemachi, a small geisha district near the river, and Higashi Chaya, the main old geisha district of Kanazawa. 

Stay here and explore the shops and cafes while they are open. However, just as you did in Takayama, make sure you hang around a little bit once they close, so you can make the most of the place without so many people.

Our full guide of what to see and do in Higashi Chaya can help you plan what to see in the area. There are some interesting shrines you might not want to miss.

Where to Spend Your Evening

You could dine in Higashi Chaya, or find a restaurant close to your hotel. There are a lot of good dining options in Kanazawa – it’s where I had one of my most memorable meals in Japan.

Where I Stayed in Kanazawa

Hotel Forza – and I thought this was a great hotel. It was an excellent location, brilliant value for money – and they give you a free welcome sake – I had mine while my washing was on!

For more hotel ideas, though, see our guide on where to stay in Kanazawa. 

Day 5: Kanazawa

There are a lot of different things to see in Kanazawa – from modern art galleries, museums of quiet reflection, old samurai areas, the amazing Ninja temple and one of Japan’s top three gardens –  so, how you spend this last day will very much depend on your must-sees (our guide to the top 10 Kanazawa sights will help you decide).

But my suggestion would be to start your day at the Ninja Temple, then explore some of the interesting shrines nearby. Walk up through the Nishi Chaya District, then wander Nagamachi, the old Samurai Area. If you have time, you could then head to the Contemporary Art Gallery or Kenrouken Garden, aiming to arrive about an hour before they close. If you’re lucky, and it’s a late night for the Gallery, you might be able to do both.

If that sounds like too much organisation, you could book an organised tour of Kanazawa. This one takes in a lot of the main sights – including the fantastic sweet mould museum. It does go back to Higashi Chaya, so, if you decide to do this, I’d do the Ninja Temple, Nishi Chaya and Nagamachi on day one.

Depending on how late you finish your day, you might want to spend another night in Kanazawa, or, head straight to Kyoto – it takes about an hour and 45 minutes to get there from Kanazawa, ready to start a new adventure in the morning. 

If you’re looking for a plan once you get there, try our four-day Kyoto itinerary.

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