7-Day Central Japan Itinerary inc Kanazawa, Takayama and Shirakawa-go

Whether you’re thinking of it as a destination in its own right, or the long way to travel between Tokyo and Kyoto, Central Japan has a lot to offer – from headline sights like Nagano’s Snow Monkeys and the pretty streets of Kanazawa and Takayama to less well-known destinations like Iwase, a small town punching above its weight for foodies. Here’s our 7-Day plan to discover it. 

Article by Helen Foster. Disclosure: Some links in this post are affiliate links. See our Affiliate Disclosure.

Let’s Start with Trains…

This route is mainly covered by the Hokuriku Shinkansen, a line that travels in an arch between Tokyo and Kanazawa. Trains on this route leave Tokyo from either Tokyo Station or Ueno.

The Kagayaki, the fastest train covering this route, is one of the Shinkansen trains that requires a seat reservation, so you might want to book this in advance once you decide on your plans. 

You can do this at the station once you arrive in Japan, or if you prefer to be organised, book the tickets online via either the JR East direct website or a third-party service like Klook. The SmartEx app, which you may have read about, does not cover this route.

If the day is clear, you might see Mount Fuji from this train, so try to sit on the left-hand side to get the best chance of a view.

Oh, and in a last piece of housekeeping, unlike the other Shinkansen line that runs between Tokyo and Kyoto, you don’t need to book special seats on the Hokuriku line if you have larger luggage. You can either put your bags above your head, by your feet, or in the luggage racks in each compartment.

Day 1 – Nagano

Okay, time to get onto the important bit. Where to stop? And we’re going to start in Nagano – ex-home to the Winter Olympics, but definitely more than a snow resort.

Leave Tokyo around 8-9 am to arrive in Nagano by mid-morning. It takes about 80 minutes to get here from Tokyo Station.

I’d suggest staying near the station so you can quickly leave your bags at your hotel, then walk or take the bus to Zenko-ji Temple, the main sight in Nagano City.

This is a lot larger than it might look, as it has extensive grounds and sub-temples, with a lot of interesting small details to try and spot (see our quirky Zenko-ji guide on our sister blog Differentville for an idea of what to see). Allow 2-3 hours for exploring here.

Want to Make the Most of your Time? Book a Zenkoji tour here.

PM: Monkeys, Art or Castles – Oh My!

How you spend your afternoon may vary depending on your interests, time of year and how far outside of Nagano you want to travel. But you could pick from these.

Go and See the Snow Monkeys

If it’s between November and March, you might want to catch the train or bus to Yudunaka, the jumping-off point to visit the famous Snow Monkeys. At other times of the year, you might see some monkeys, but they won’t be sitting in the hot springs. Check our guide to visiting the Snow Monkeys for advice on routes and tips on what to expect when you arrive.

Enjoy Some Art

If you’re an art enthusiast, take a trip to the Nagano Prefectural Art Museum. Make sure you catch the Fujiko Nakaya fog exhibit – check timings in advance. Then take the train for 33 minutes along the Nagano Dentetsu Line to the small town of Obuse.

Obuse is where the famous Japanese artist Hokusai, painter of the Great Wave off Kanagawa and other famous works, spent the last years of his life, and there is a museum dedicated to his art here. He also painted an impressive piece of work on the ceiling of the Ganshoin temple just outside town. Obuse is a pretty town to walk around – make sure you grab one of the chestnut-based snacks to keep you going.

If you’d prefer to book a tour of Obuse, there is one here that covers the Hokusai Museum and some other interesting sights in the town.

Shrine Stamps & Showa Shops

If you prefer to stay in Nagano itself, you could take the Seven Lucky Gods’ Shrine Walk and collect the different stamps, or wander around the retro Gondo shopping area. I only had time to dine here at night and really regretted not being able to walk around the cool, old shops while they were open during the day.

Or try a Let’s Roam self-guided tour, which sees you solving clues and travelling around the city scavenger-hunt-style, to find places you might not discover on your own.

How to Spend Your Evening

The main dining areas in Nagano are Gondo and around the station. I wasn’t well when I was here, so I didn’t explore either evening area to the fullest. I would have loved to do this local bar tour to get a feel for the area. As I was, I just went for a soothing dumpling soup at Orion in Gondo.

Where I Stayed in Nagano

I chose the Chisun Grand Nagano. It had one of the comfiest beds I’ve slept in during my time in Japan! If it’s booked out, or not your style, check out our guide on where to stay in Nagano for more ideas, including temple stays.

Day 2: Matsumoto or Narai Juku

Both of these destinations are an easy day trip from Nagano – my original plan was to do both in one day, but I couldn’t make the train connections work, so, as I said, in my guide to how long to spend in Nagano, if you also want to do both, I’d suggest spending three days in Nagano.

If You Choose Matsumoto

Catch the Shinano line from Nagano Station to Matsumoto Station. It runs once an hour but only takes 50 minutes. Note: You can’t use Suica cards on trains from Nagano, so make sure you allow time to buy a ticket.

Once in Matsumoto, the main sights are all within an easy walk from each other. On my visit, I went first to the Matsumoto City Museum of Art to see the Yayoi Kasuma pumpkins, as I wanted to be there before the queues built up – and it worked, I was the only person in the pumpkin room!

I then doubled back a bit to go to the white-walled Nakamachi Street. A little further north took me to the fun Nawate Shopping Street (also known as Frog Street). I then wandered up to the famous Matsumoto Castle. I didn’t go inside the castle for a couple of reasons, but if you do want to do so, there are regular free English tours between 10 am and 3 pm. Our one-day guide to Matsumoto, giving more details of these stops, is coming very soon.

Prefer to see a place through the eyes of a local guide? This walking tour of Matsumoto takes in all of the above sights. You meet at Matsumoto Station.

If You Choose Narai Juku

It’s a bit of a frustrating journey to get to Narai Juku from Nagano. The actual travel time is only 80 minutes, but you have to change trains halfway, and the connections mean you are likely to be waiting a while and that journey can easily stretch for two hours.

If you decide it’s worth it, though, you need to take the Shinano Line in Nagano and then transfer to the Chuo Line as directed. One thing to watch out for on this journey is that train prices can vary significantly depending on the time of travel – check this carefully when planning. If you want to keep the costs right down, you can use the Shinonoi Line the whole way, but it will take close to three hours.

The poor train connections mean I didn’t get to Narai Juku as I was trying to combine it with Matsumoto (not possible), but with the help of my friend and fellow travel blogger Joanne, who did get to see the town, we’re come up with a guide on what to know before you visit Narai Juku, so you don’t slip up – potentially literally!

Evening

If you visited Gondo last night, why not take in the area near the station tonight? If I hadn’t been feeling so ill at this point, I would have gone to 元祖信州餃子 ツクモ横丁 – as I liked the look of the retro sign.

As I was, I needed a salad, so I went to the nearby Royal Host, one of Japan’s family restaurants, for something light and had an early night.

Day 3: Toyama

Today, you’re going to move on to a place you might not have heard of – but it’s being listed in many undiscovered places in Japan lists, so expect that to change soon. However, before we get there…

At Sunrise

One special thing about staying in Nagano is the opportunity to participate in the O-asaji, morning service at Zenkoji. This occurs at exactly sunrise (to the minute) every morning.

If you booked a temple stay, access to this will likely be arranged for you; if you haven’t, or it isn’t, then you’ll find the instructions here to either attend the blessing outside, which does not require a ticket, or the full ceremony in the inner sanctum, which does. The site also provides the exact time of the ceremony, as it varies slightly from day to day.

AM: Toyama

It takes just 45 minutes by Shinkansen to get to Toyama from Nagano. How early you leave will depend on how you want to fill your day.

Explore Toyama City and Iwase

This is how I spend my day. I ate Toyama’s famous black ramen, visited the Glass Museum to see the amazing Dale Chihuly sculptures, and paid a visit to the Hei Shrine. Get more details on all of these in our guide on what to do in Toyama for one day. 

I then got on the very convenient tram in Toyama (you get a free ticket if you’re staying in a hotel in Toyama) and rode north to Iwase. This small town is home to gourmet restaurants, small artisan shops, pretty old wooden buildings and a famous sake brewery – all with barely any other tourists. See more in our guide of things to do in Iwase.

Ride the Kurobe Gorge Railway

This very picturesque railway runs from Unazaki to Nekomata, crossing tall bridges and passing through beautiful forests – it’s stunning during the fall foliage season. If you travel here from Toyama itself, it will be a full-day outing, so you’ll need to leave Nagano on the first Shinkansen at 7.38 am. You can find the timetable here to help plan your day.

To join the Kurobe Gorge train, the fastest route (just under two hours) is to take the Ainokaze Toyama Line to Uozo Station, then change to the Toyama Chiho Line. This will take you to Unazukionsen Station. From here, it’s a short walk to Unazaki Station, where you board the sightseeing train. It takes about two hours round-trip on the Kurobe Gorge Train if you don’t get off at any of the stops.

Evening

Head to the free observatory on top of Toyama City Hall to watch the sunset, then perhaps pick one of the many restaurants in Toyama serving glass shrimp – another must-try dish.

Where I Stayed in Toyama

Toyoko Inn Toyama Eki Shinkansen Guchi 2 – the location is excellent, the price was fantastic, but the beds are very firm! If that doesn’t sound like your idea of a good night’s sleep, see our guide on where to stay in Toyama for some other ideas.

Day 4: Hida Furukawa & Takayama

AM: Hida Furukawa

Take the Hida line south from Toyama Station to the small town of Hida Furukawa. During the warmer months, this friendly town is famous for the koi carp that swim along the town’s canals – you can stand and feed them. I was amazed, as in many countries these things would be worth thousands of dollars each, and there they are just swimming around. I loved the few hours I spent here.

See our full guide on what to do in Hida Furukawa to help plan your day and make sure you don’t miss anything.

PM: Takayama Old Town

After a few hours exploring Hida Furukawa, catch the train 15 minutes further south to Takayama. There is one train an hour – the Takayama Line is cheaper than using the Hida Line if you can make the timings work (find the timetable here or use the Navitime app).

Takayama is famous for its old town, a three-block area of charming wooden houses that now house shops and restaurants. You can easily wander around it in an afternoon, although it does get a little busy with day trippers.

On your first afternoon, I’d suggest exploring the Old Town area and the fun retro Showa Museum. Depending on when you arrive in Takayama, you may want to head to your hotel to check in around 4 pm, or stay out exploring.

However, whatever you do, at some point today or tomorrow, make sure to visit the Old Town after the shops have closed and the day trippers have gone home. It’s a different world, and when the streets are at their prettiest – especially if you’re there just before sunset when the Golden Hour light hits and the street lamps come on.

Where to Spend Your Evening 

While Takayama is a great place to try the Hida Beef that this region is famous for, a lot of the restaurants in the Old Town close early, so check the timings. If you’re too late to eat in Old Town, you’ll find plenty of bars and restaurants around Asahi-Machi or near the station.

Check our guide to dining in Takayama for ideas of where to spend your evening.

Where I Stayed in Takayama

I stayed at the modern Hotel Wing International – now called Koko Hotel Hida Takayama – and the onsite onsen was very welcome at the end of long days of sightseeing. But for more ideas, check our guide on where to stay in Takayama. 

Day 5: Takayama

This morning, visit the Miyagawa morning markets and the Matsuri Yatai Kaikan. This museum showcases the giant floats that take part in the twice-yearly Matsuri Parade, offering an incredible opportunity to see them up close. Make sure you listen to the audio commentary; it will highlight small details that you might miss otherwise.

Also, be sure not to miss the Sakurayama Nikkokan that’s also located in the shrine grounds – this features scale models of the famous temples in Nikko, and it was my favourite thing in Takayama.

Allow 2-3 hours to get all of this done. Then grab some lunch – if you didn’t get to try Hida Beef last night, lunch could be a good time to enjoy some of this famous dish.

PM: More Takayama Wanderings

In the afternoon, you could revisit the Old Town and spend more time tasting sake or shopping. You could also take in the Higashiyama Shrine Walk, or go in search of Takayama’s cutest mascot, the Sarubobo. Or, take a bus down to the Hido No Sato Open Air Museum, or take time to relax in one of the many hotel onsens in Takayama.

To prevent this from turning into a book, you’ll find fuller details of all of the Takayama sights mentioned in our guide to the top 10 Takayama sights. 

Day 6: Shirakawa-go & Kanazawa

Time to move on again – you can go straight to Kanazawa from Takayama, but, the bus that does this goes via the small village of Shirakawa-go, so it seems silly not to stop off for at least an hour.

AM: Shirakawa-go

You’ve probably seen pictures of Shirakawa-go – it’s the village full of thatched houses with pointed roofs, and it is very, very pretty. 

You want to get here early, so try to arrive on one of the first buses of the morning. These do fill up, so make sure you reserve in advance. Find the timetable and details on how to reserve the buses.

I messed up my visit to Shirakawa-go a bit and didn’t enjoy it perhaps as much as I could have. Make sure to read this guide, which outlines what I wish I‘d known before visiting Shirakawa-go, so you don’t make the same mistakes. 

PM: Arrive in Kanazawa

Leave Shirakawago around noon. Again, it’s a good idea to reserve the bus so you know you have a seat. This will bring you into Kanazawa by about 2pm. 

Depending on where you’re staying, you might want to save lunch to try some excellent fresh sushi from Omicho Market (my hotel, the Forza, was just steps away). From here it’s a short walk to the very pretty streets of Kazuemachi, a small geisha district near the river, and Higashi Chaya, the main old geisha district of Kanazawa. 

Stay here and explore the shops and cafes while they are open. However, just as you did in Takayama, make sure you hang around a little bit once they close, so you can make the most of the place without so many people.

Our full guide of what to see and do in Higashi Chaya can help you plan what to see in the area. There are some interesting shrines you might not want to miss.

Where to Spend Your Evening

You could dine in Higashi Chaya, or find a restaurant close to your hotel. There are a lot of good dining options in Kanazawa – our guide to where to eat in Kanazawa highlights some of my favourites.

Where I Stayed in Kanazawa

Hotel Forza – and I thought this was a great hotel. It was an excellent location, a nice room with a sofa (when you’re used to staying in tiny Japanese hotels where the room barely fits your suitcase, as I am, this is very exciting) – and they give you a free welcome wine or sake – I had mine while my washing was on!

For more hotel ideas, though, see our guide on where to stay in Kanazawa. 

Day 7: Kanazawa

Kanazawa might be famous for it’s old town, but it’s full of a variety of things to do – from modern art galleries, a castle and grounds, museums of quiet reflection, old samurai areas, the amazing Ninja temple and one of Japan’s top three gardens –  so, how you spend this last day will very much depend on your must-sees (our guide to the top 10 Kanazawa sights will help you decide).

But my suggestion would be to start your day at the Ninja Temple, then explore some of the interesting shrines nearby. Walk up through the Nishi Chaya District, then wander Nagamachi, the old Samurai Area. If you have time, you could then head to the Contemporary Art Gallery or Kenrouken Garden, aiming to arrive about an hour before they close. If you’re lucky, and it’s a late night for the Gallery, you might be able to do both.

If that sounds like too much organisation, you could book an organised tour of Kanazawa. This one takes in a lot of the main sights – including the fantastic sweet mould museum. It does go back to Higashi Chaya, so, if you decide to do this, I’d do the Ninja Temple, Nishi Chaya and Nagamachi on day one.

Depending on how late you finish your day, you might want to spend another night in Kanazawa, or, head straight to Kyoto – it takes about an hour and 45 minutes to get there from Kanazawa, ready to start a new adventure in the morning. 

If you’re looking for a plan once you get there, try our four-day Kyoto itinerary.

And that’s it – our seven day plan taking in some of the best of Central Japan.

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